Of all of the countries producing wine in the world today, the most exciting is Italy.

Why, you ask?

Italy offers extraordinary variety: No other wine nation has such a history of small, localized communities, giving rise to different cultures, dialects, cuisines, and an incredible selection of different wines. Here, you will discover an extraordinary array of grape varieties named Negroamaro, Black Malvasia, Nebbiolo, Corvino, Sangiovese, and Nero d’Avola. Unlike any other wine country in the world today, you find an endless number of lesser-known varieties that continue to flourish in every nook and cranny of the world's most prolific wine-producing nation.

The topography and soil of a very hilly, yet green, Italy are proportionately more suitable for quality grape growing than those of almost any nation on earth. And behind it all stands the fact that Italians, figuratively and literally, have wine flowing in their blood.

Wine production in Italy dates back beyond the time of the Etruscans and the Greeks, but it was these two cultures that brought a system and methodology to bear upon what was previously a rather haphazard affair.  The 1960s introduced the concept of DOC, the controlled denomination of origin, and the 1970’s brought a complete overhaul of production methods. By the mid-1980s, Italy's top producers found themselves as equals with the best in the world in terms of technique and technology.

But in spite of this progress, the concept of “fine Italian wine” was considered a contradiction in terms. Is it really pretentious to suggest that Italy ever could surpass a wine nation of the stature of France? The very notion would have been unthinkable, even laughable, 15 years ago, but not today, as Italian wines have come forward to take their place amongst the worlds finest.

Italy has 20 wine producing regions to explore, so, why don’t we begin our Italian odyssey by visiting the three regions located in the country’s northeast corner and collectively known as the Tre Venezie. Whether they are the Dolomites of the Alto Adige or the Julian pre-Alps of Friuli, in this region, the mountains dominate.

Why here and not Tuscany?

Quite simply, because these regions set the pace in Italy in the crafting of modern wines from a diverse range of native and international varieties. This makes it the perfect jumping off spot for out first visit.

Remember, the goal of this little excursion is not to make you any sort of expert, but only to help you become a better-informed consumer.

Our first stop — Trentino-Alto Adige.

Trentino-Alto Adige

As we enter Italy from Austria through the Brenner Pass, there is little sense of any change. The snowcapped Dolomites tower over the valley road, and the architecture remains typically alpine and Tyrolean. This is the Alto Adige, or, as a large part of the population would have it, Südtirol (South Tyrol). It was indeed part of Austria until it was ceded to Italy in 1919. Here the dress, architecture, food and language remain very Teutonic. The language is predominantly German and it is common to have the locals gesture to the south and refer to Italy as "that country down there".

Over half the production is DOC, and with only 15% of the area suitable for cultivation, the standard of quality is kept at a very high level. The dominant vine variety of Alto Adige is Schiava or Vernatsch, a source of a light, fresh and bright red wine, the majority of which is exported north to German-speaking countries. The most highly regarded of these is St. Magdalener or Santa Maddalena, grown on the picturesque slopes overlooking Bolzano.

As we move south into Trentino, the valley opens up and we begin to find vineyards on the valley floor as well as the gentler slopes. A certain Italian flair (some might call it disorder) also begins to make itself evident.

Trentino, Italy’s largest producer of Chardonnay is also a leader in the production of sparkling wines by classical methods. Its native Nosiola also serves as the base of Vino Santo, an opulent dessert wine from the Valle dei Laghi north of Lake Garda.

In both provinces, increasing space is being devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Here you also will find some of Italy's finest rosés, the most impressive being Lagrein Kretzer, and the sweet Moscato Rosa, a rare and prized dessert wine with a gracefully flowery aroma. 

The growing demand for white wines has resulted in growers planting more aromatic white varieties such as Sylvaner, Veltliner, Gewürztraminer and white Moscato. Although the region's white wines have often been considered light, some have shown an unexpected tendency to age, a few remaining fresh and vibrant for a decade or more.

Despite the traditional flow north to German-speaking countries, the wines of Trentino-Alto Adige, whites in particular, have been making steady progress in Italy and, recently, on distant markets, such as the United States and United Kingdom.

Now, let’s move on to the Veneto.

The Veneto

We follow the Adige River and enter the Veneto flanked by Lake Garda and Bardolino on one side and the hills of the Valpolicella Classico zone on the other. The gentle hills to the north, around Breganze, Vicenza and Conegliano, and the fertile plains of the Piave Valley, are home to a vast array of vines, making the Veneto the leading Italian region in terms of DOC production.

Presided over by Venice, Vicenza and Verona, this region often seems to be the embodiment of all that is cultured. Continuing east, following the Adige River, we skirt the southern tip of Valpolicella and pass through Verona, one of Italy's most beautiful and romantic cities, on the way to Soave.

Soave, the most popular of Italian dry whites, ranks third after Chianti and Asti in volume among classified wines. Normally a dry, still wine, sparkling and sweet Recioto versions can also be found.

Of the native red grapes in the northeast, three are of greatest importance: Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Though grown in a fairly small area, they are the major grapes of Valpolicella and Bardolino, two of Italy's best-known wines.

Corvina is widely regarded as the finest grape, lending structure, perfume and finesse to the blend, while Rondinella imparts color, acidity and a certain part of the bouquet, and Molinara gives a soft, easy drinking type of fruit.

Bardolino, from the shores of Lake Garda, is an easy drinking wine, whether poured as the light red version or dark pink Chiaretto. This wine is also gaining popularity as a Vino Novello, another category in which the Veneto leads production in Italy.

Valpolicella remains fourth in volume among all DOC’s and types and is produced in four styles.

Valpolicello Classico Superiore has a light, fresh and youthful style. It has slightly more depth than Bardolino, and a striking cherryish-purple color topped by a fresh scent of black cherries and a light but lively fruit palate. If you allow the northeast’s “big three” grapes to air-dry for 4-5 months before vinification, a process known as "appassimento", you will find yourself with the richly elegant flagship wine of the area, Amarone della Valpolicella. The regal Amarone ranks very high among Italy's most respected red wines.

 Stopping the Amarone fermentation at around 80 percent (roughly 13% alcohol) results in the opulently sweet Recioto della Valpolicella. Finally, if you take Amarone pomace, pour in fresh Valpolicella wine and then allow a second fermentation to take place, the result is Valpolicello Classico Superiore Ripasso, which one of the region’s most glorious creations. A deep, dark, rich velvety wine with remarkable body that drinks twice its price.

Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, north of Venice, are noted for the highly popular Prosecco, a dry to softly sweet, almost always bubbly, great alternative to traditional sparkling white wine. You’ll want to try the Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze, the premium version of this variety. The adjacent Montello e Colli Asolani zone is also noted for its Prosecco, in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Time to leave the Veneto and head for our last stop — Venezia-Friuli Giula.

Venezia-Friuli Giulia

Moving to the north and east, the Italian influence fades again as we approach the Yugoslavian border. The border bisects Gorizia, in the heart of the Collio zone, placing 80 per cent of Collio in Yugoslavia. Some producers maintain vineyards in Yugoslavia, and travel back and forth unhindered by border formalities.

Friuli is a little-known compact region that ranks 17th in size and 15th in population among Italy’s other regions. As in the Veneto, many of the vineyards are planted on the plains, but the best are still found on hills. Even though small in size, the two DOC zones of Collio and Colli Orientali are considered to be the cradle of the Italian white wine revolution.

Tocai Friulano has always dominated the whites fashioned here, producing a refreshingly crisp, nutty, dry white-style wine. This is a really excellent wine, but one not widely known to American consumers.

Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio are the mainstays of the region and you will find the Friulian white style to favor the fresh and fruity with delicate fragrance and flavors that express clear varietal character. In the past many Friulian producers considered their whites to be too pure and linear to benefit from wood aging. However, today you will find blending and oak aging widely used to add depth and complexity.

Light and fruity reds are produced from Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Nero, the predominant red grapes here.

But you will also find that Refosco, a native red grape, can produce not only a young, lovely, light and fruity wine, but also wine very suitable for aging. Some winemakers are experimenting with blending Refosco with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and then aging in small oak barrels.

This brings us to the end of our first exploratory to the Italian wine country. What remains for you to do at this point is go out and test your new knowledge and try a few wines from these regions. So, to get you started in the right direction, I am providing a short list for you to choose from. These are all wines from well-known producers so there shouldn’t be any surprises. We’ll get a little more adventurous on our next visit, but for now these will give you a good idea of the styles associated with these three regions.

Fino alla prossima volta, ciao! — Until next time, ciao!